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“The Cape” by Sepp Gumann, Switzerland,
(Report original in Deutsch)
click here for a Map
If you would like to drive down to the Cape from Cape Town, I strongly recommend the
following, marvellous round trip which should last about one day: It's only a short distance, but what a beautiful distance it is!
Just behind Cape Town's oldest vineyard, Constantia, the port town of Muizenberg emerges, with its beautiful white sandy beach. It's your first stop on False Bay.
Sailors once mistook "Cape Hangklip" for " Cape Point" (which is 30 km further to the South) and False Bay for the Indian Ocean - hence the slightly disenchanted name of 'false bay'.
The waters of False Bay are quite warm, always about 5 degrees higher than the unprotected sea of the Atlantic on the West side of the Cape peninsula.
The road to the Cape follows False Bay
southwards, down the Eastern coast of the cape peninsula, to St. James and Kalk Bay. This place has a tidal pool, which is perfect for safe bathing. Also Kalk Bay is famous for its picturesque Antique stores, which are well
worth a visit. From here it is also possible to take a boat trip to Seals Island, where you'll see... seals. And maybe some white sharks, who like you are visiting the island because of the seals.
Still further South, you drive through Fish Hoek (featuring yet one more, very beautiful beach -
great for swimming, no sharks!) on to the historical port of Simonstown.
It is the most important naval base of South
Africa, having been built in 1814 by the British. For many years Simonstown was mainly influenced by the navy base, but recently the tourists have discovered the most beautiful beach of the entire cape peninsula right there:
"Boulders", named after the many, monumental granite rocks that adorn it.
There's one more highlight: African Penguins,
which live here protected in a colony.
Since 1998, Boulders Beach has been incorporated into the new 7700 hectare Cape Peninsula National Park.
Keep driving South. After Boulders, land
development stops abruptly. The winding coastal road leads to Cape Point, already visible on the horizon: A huge, rocky outcrop with a lighthouse on top of it.
The road becomes wild and spectacular, with narrow curves.
Sometimes, between the rocks, you can catch a glimpse of breathtaking vistas towards the sea and the mountains.
Between here and the Cape, bear gibbons can be spotted at any given moment. They even might sit right in the middle of the road. They
never should be fed! The look cute and cuddly, but with their extremely long teeth they can cause terrible injuries. If you see some, just keep driving.
After Smithwinkelbay the road leads into the
Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. A small admission fee has to be paid at the entrance.
Since 1936, the southern tip of the cape peninsula, with a coastal line of approximately 40 kilometres, has been placed under
environmental protection.
Different kinds of Antelopes, bear gibbons, Springboks, Ostriches and Zebras - not to
mention the magnificent, colourful and unique flora - have found a safe retreat there. After the
rain, a lot of turtles come onto the roads, to drink water from the puddles.
The cape is well known for its various Fynbos vegetation - the most popular representative of it, the central European balcony plant number
one, the Geranium, grows wild and untamed.
The last kilometers down to the Cape are a sheer delight!
The road finally ends below Cape Point, at a large Parking lot. By foot or with the much
more comfortable rack-railway, the last steep meters to the highest point of the Cape can be climbed.(It's a very steep climb!) From up here, at the picturesque lighthouse, you get a breathtaking view over False Bay and the
Holland Mountains in the background.
209 meters below, the Atlantic waves break against the rock, sometimes creating so loud a thundering noise that you can hardly hear your own words.
And gazing out into the waters, you can actually see two oceans meet: The swirling line where currents and waters from the Atlantic and the Indian Ocean clash against each others is distinguishable on most days.
Make sure you get a clear and sunny day - and you will be rewarded with an unforgettable 360 degree panoramic view on own of the most spectacular bits of real estate on the entire world.
From the new Cape Point restaurant " Two Oceans ", built straight into the rocks, the mixing of the two oceans can be observed at its best.
Or if you're good on your feet, it is worthwhile
to walk down to the newly built, modern electronic lighthouse. On the way fantastic photo ops can be found, of course depending
upon the weather and the vegetation season.
We stood on top of one of the great look-out points, enjoying the wildly foaming sea and,
dreamed about where Africa ends, just like at home when looking at the map, almost unreal, but this time it was beautiful and enchanting reality!
Many tourists regard Cape Point as the southernmost point of the Cape - which it isn't. This special point lies some 3 kilometres further West and 200 meters more to the
South and is - of course - the Cape of Good Hope. Go there, but don't be too disappointed.
All you'll find will be a small beach, a few rocks and a panel.
Still, geographically speaking, this is it! The southern tip of the African continent! No more land until Antarctica. (Actually, there is an
even more southern bit of land, called Cape Agulhas, 320 km to the East of the Cape, but this one's for geography buffs only).
At the Cape of Good Hope, you can actually get into contact with the sea, even walk into
the water if you want. Make a memory-photgraph of the waves and fill up your heart with good hope.
We left the Cape Reserve and took the M65 towards Scarborough. Our journey back to Cape Town will from now on follow the
Western coastline of the peninsula, with the Atlantic ocean on our left-hand side.
Driving alongside the picturesque Witsand Bay to the Misty Point, the sea surf constantly creates a fine water vapour in the air. (Must be called Misty Point because of that). In the afternoon sun, the refractions of light in the
mist make the coast look like a bewitched world.
Past the lighthouse of Kommetjie, you circle
around the lagoon to Chapmans Bay in a wide bend until you reach Noordhoek. There the
finest, unspoiled sand beach of the Cape spreads for 5 km. The water is very cold and the sharp wind of the Atlantic suits only good and tough surfers. The beach is frequented by wanderers and numerous horseback riders; horses are being hired out for tourists.
From here, one of the most beautiful coastal roads of the world, spectacularly built into the rocks, 10 kilometres long, leads to Hout Bay. It is the Chapmans Peak Drive, a steep and winding strip of concrete often used for the shooting of car commercials, with a sheer,
vertical drop of over 100 meters to your left and an equally vertical granite wall to your right.
Do use one of the numerous park bays to make a stop and to enjoy the breathtaking view on Hout Bay.
The most beautiful lookout point is on a 160 meter high apex, where the entire bay,
including the 330 meters high " Sentinel " - similar to the "Rio Sugar Hat - come into view at once. An irresistible invitation to sweet and gentle daydreams!
At Hout Bay harbour we payed a visit to "Mariners Wharf" a slightly touristy fish restaurant offering the presumably best made " Snoek's ", a kind of South African Mackerel,
a speciality nowhere found fresher in the cape peninsula.
Further North to Cape Town, the road leads up steeply to " Hout Bay Nek ", where with the view towards the sea, between the high " Judas peak " and the " Lions Head ", at an altitude of 760 meters, again, you are touched
yet once more by this incredibly deep, overwhelming awe created by the natural beauty of this corner of the globe.
You are now on the home stretch, the " Victoria drive ". Civilization has you again, as
the number of dwellings on the side of the road grows by the minute.
On your right-hand side, the mountain range of the "Twelve Apostles" emerges, at whose end
the Table Mountain rises.
Along the coastal road numerous souvenir stands await your custom, offering you everything and more that African arts and craft can offer.
Even though there are dozens of stands, they
all seem to have the same purveyor, because they basically sell the same kind of stuff. Please, don't buy an elephant's foot turned into an umbrella holder.
Next we reached the beaches of Camps Bay with their many palm trees, then Clifton and
finally Sea Point.
The white sand beaches look very inviting, but the water here is almost ice-cold, not like in False Bay. Only real tough guys will challenge the tides of the western cape water - beware of
that undertow!
Almost back home.
But it wouldn't do to omit the last spectacular, natural highlight of the cape region: The sunset, a typically South African " Sundowner
"! Hopefully soon again!
Any comments? Please contact manegold@southafricanonline..com
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